Beginning to Knit Series | Part 2: Yarn Weights Explained
What Are Yarn Weights, And Why Do I Need To Know?
Many new knitters feel a little lost with what all the yarn weights mean, and why they are important, so in this blog we are going to ask the big questions I get asked at the shop: What are yarn weights, and why do I need to know?
Yarn weights are helpful industry standards that allow us to know what we can expect from our yarn. They range from lace to jumbo, and as well as finding some common sub-categories in the range, we can also start to find our needle sizes for each one as well. For this blog, I am going to concentrate on the six weights that we enjoy at The Knit Lounge, as they are the best for clothing, accessories, and home projects.
A Note on Ply
The term ‘Ply’ can often been confusing as it can mean one of two things (or both simultaneously) 4ply can refer to the number of individual strands twisted together to make one strand of yarn. A 4-ply yarn has four strands twisted together. A 2ply will have two strands that have twisted together, and so on. However, while "4-ply" can refer to the structure of the yarn, it's also used as a shorthand for the yarn weight category, which is often associated with fingering weight or sock yarn. The Yarn weight refers to just the overall thickness of a stand of yarn. It's crucial to understand that modern yarn labels might not always align precisely with the traditional ply-to-weight relationship. As a beginner the most important thing to pay attention to is the yarn weight or thickness of the yarn. (New knitters can get a bit overwhelmed by all the terms and phrases, but you will get the hang of them quickly!)
No matter what the fibre content of your yarn is, it will come under these weights, so there’s no need to worry about whether your laceweight merino is the same as a laceweight silk; it will be! Once you have read the pattern you want to use and taken note of the stitch count for the gauge, as well as the needle sizes, you will be able to look at the different yarns for your personal substitutions.
Lace
Subcategory: Lace
Needle Size: 1.5 - 2.25mm
Stitches over 4 inches: 33 - 40
A very fine, thin and delicate strand. Lace yarn is beautiful, and drapes like cobwebs. It is common to see this very fine yarn used on its own for projects like the wedding shawls from Shetland, as well as sheer tee-shirts and summer weight knits. Traditional mohair yarns like Rowan Kidsilk Haze are lace weight yarns. It can also be held together (‘double’) with another strand of yarn to create different looks, add floof, or create a unique colour definition.
Super Fine
Subcategory: Sock, Fingering, 4ply, Baby
Needle Size: 2.25mm - 3.25
Stitches over 4 inches: 27 - 32
In the UK, we often refer to this yarn as ‘Sock Yarn’ or '4ply' (see note on ply above) and it's more commonly called ‘Fingering weight’ in the US. The term fingering weight is becoming more common and I personally prefer this term as it mitigates the confusing duel use of the term ply! These yarns, including CoopKnits Socks Yeah can be used for all types of lightweight projects, including (but not limited to) socks! There are some beautiful sweaters that I have knit in 4ply, such as The Kintra by The Creabea and Wool and Honey by Andrea Mowry and there are some stunning traditional colourwork patterns available for this weight of yarn. This is also a very common weight of yarn for shawls and gives amazing drape.
Fine
Subcategory: Sport. Baby
Needle Size: 3.25 - 3.75
Stitches over 4 inches: 23 -26
This yarn bridges the gap between 4ply yarns and a DK/Double knit, and is often used as a light DK. It is a often a 5ply yarn, and is classically used in Gansey sweater constructions and forms a tight knit when used in slightly smaller needles. Baa Ram Ewe Skipper is a traditional 5ply Gurnsey yarn. Today its more commonly knit on 3.25 - 3.75mm needles and makes a warm, lightweight but structured fabric without the bulk. Lang Merino 150 and Hjerte Fine are perfect for modern patterns calling for a sport weight yarn.
Light
Subcategory: Double Knit (DK), Light Worsted
Needle Size: 3.75 - 4.5mm
Stitches over 4 inches: 21 - 24
DK weight yarn is the most popular weight at The Knit Lounge! It’s spun often with 8 strands, so it is a ‘double’ of the 4ply, which is how it gets its name! Technically it is known as a ‘light’ yarn, however a full sweater for autumn and winter in a DK will be very different to a summer tee knit up in a fingering weight yarn! This weight is a great balance between warm but still not too bulky to wear. Will still fit under your coat!
Medium
Subcategory: Worsted, Afgan, Aran
Needle Size: 4.5 - 5.5mm
Stitches over 4 inches: 16 -20
Aran yarn is another confusing weight of yarn, as the term ‘Aran’ doesn’t mean that it comes from the Isle of Aran, or that you can only knit Aran sweaters out of it! It also doesn’t mean it is spun in only a Worsted manner, it can be a woollen spun as well. It’s simply the other bridge that connects DK to the chunky yarn. It is a great yarn for winter knits like sweaters and cardigans but also perfect for home accessories like blankets and cushions. This weight knits up pretty fast but can start to get heavy depending on the fibre content of the yarn.
Bulky
Subcategory: Chunky, Rug
Needle Size: 5.5 - 9mm
Stitches over 4 inches: 8-11
Bulky is a weight that can vary wildly in actual thickness! It can be just slightly thicker than Aran weight up to pretty chunky. Recommended needle size can be anything form a 5.5mm up to 8 or 9mm! Its great for super quick knits but is very thick so good for outer wear or garments for the depths of winter. The traditional Icelandic sweater or Lopapeysa is often knitted in this weight of yarn. This gives you an idea of how warm garments in this yarn can be! Sandnes Garn Fritidsgarn is a great bulky weight yarn without the heaviness.
Super Bulky
Subcategory: Super Chunky, Roving
Needle Size: 9 - 15mm
Stitches over 4 inches: 7-9
Popular amongst beginners and younger knitters because of how quickly this knits up, Super Bulky yarn is a fun way to start knitting. While I personally wouldn't want a garment made from it, it makes brilliant snoods, scarves and hats. Its also great for decorations, and gift knitting. Although this weight knits up fast you need ALOT of it as each ball may only have 40 - 60m of yarn per 100g. Its harder to find this weight in natural fibres but King Cole Rosarium is light and butter soft AND 100% wool and merino.
(You can find more information on the Craft Yarn Council website.)
I look forward to working out which yarn is best for your project when you come to our knitting wool shop; I absolutely love talking over ideas about how to make a knitting project personal through yarn weights and colour options with my customers, and it’s a big reason why I set up the shop. Also, if you have any questions and can’t come to see me, send an email and I will be happy to help you as much as I can.
Until next time: happy knitting!
Sarah x